If you’re an American woman, chances are you’ve seen a Victoria’s Secret advertisement. The lingerie retailer is famous for its over-the-top fashion shows and flashy lingerie, but in recent years it has faced sluggish sales, criticism for lack of model diversity and size inclusivity, and a backlash from connections between former CEO Ed Razek and Jeffrey Epstein, the music producer who was linked to several sexual assault allegations against women. Those problems led to a massive rebranding for the company, including an overhaul of its annual fashion show and a shift away from its archetypal “Angels.”
The move is part of an effort to reposition the brand in the wake of a cultural revolution that has brought feminism to the forefront of public discourse and pushed companies like Starbucks and Nike to adopt progressive social stances on gay marriage and women’s rights. It also has been a time of intense competition from more overtly inclusive lingerie brands such as ThirdLove and Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty, which have grabbed market share away from Victoria’s Secret.
For the first time since 2019, Victoria’s Secret (which split from parent company L Brands in 2021) is bringing back its fashion show, to be broadcast Tuesday night on Amazon Prime Video and live across social media. The show will feature a new group of “ambassadors” called the VS Collective, who are “trailblazing partners” like plus-size model Paloma Elsesser and US soccer player Megan Rapinoe. It will also have musical guests and a runway presentation.
Victoria’s Secret is clearly trying to capture the attention of a younger audience with its rebirth, and PR experts told Campaign US that it has a good shot at succeeding. Younger consumers tend to be more demanding of progressive social stances from the brands they support and have longer loyalty potential than older generations. They are also more likely to speak out when a brand isn’t living up to their expectations.
But if Victoria’s Secret is going to make a comeback, it’ll have to do more than just appeal to the new generation of shoppers. The company has to change the definition of sexiness, which it seems to be stuck in a rut of by using models that have a distinctly outdated look to them.
The company’s initial attempt to rebrand itself in the wake of the #MeToo movement and calls for increased representational inclusivity fell flat with consumers. Its attempt to present lingerie that represented feminine strength and fierceness was dismissed as a cynical marketing ploy, particularly given the more overtly inclusive campaigns of other brands. The 2024 fashion show will be a crucial test to see if Victoria’s Secret can find its wings and make a return to relevance. The company’s newest models — many of whom are nannies, actors and athletes — will have to prove they can do more than just strut down the runway in high-fashion lingerie. They’ll have to deliver on the promise of a bold and modern identity for a woman who can do anything she sets her mind to.