A few weeks ago, the lingerie company Victoria Secret announced that its annual fashion show would return, and that it would “reflect who we are today.” This was a welcome move after years of controversy and criticism that the brand only values thin women. But, if Tuesday’s show was supposed to showcase VS’s commitment to diversity, it fell far short.
Founded in 1977, the company initially focused on selling undergarments for women at physical stores. Founder Roy Raymond sought to make the lingerie experience more intimate by providing fitting rooms and dressing areas. Over time, the company expanded its line to include sleepwear, beauty products, shoes, sports and swimwear, as well as PINK, a less expensive brand for teenage girls. The company has more than 700 stores across North America and is the largest lingerie retailer in the world, with a massive 20% share of the market in North America.
Its success has been fueled by its “Angels”–supermodels such as Stephanie Seymour, Heidi Klum and Gisele Bundchen trussed up in lingerie clad in bits of lace and satin and strutting down the runway at the annual Victoria’s Secret fashion show and in high-concept commercials directed by the likes of Michael Bay. Today, the company still employs a number of supermodels, but these models are primarily used for photo shoots and a select few appear in the yearly fashion show.
The brand is now led by chief executive officer Michelle Smythe, who has tried to turn the company around since taking over in 2018. But, Smythe has not yet succeeded. The brand’s profits have fallen each of the past four quarters and sales are down in the US, Canada and the UK. The company has also faced criticism for its controversial advertising campaigns and for its lack of transparency regarding how it sources its products.
Victoria’s Secret is trying to change its image, and it has introduced new lingerie lines featuring body-positive messages, such as its Sheer collection. But, a shift in the company’s image has to come from the top and it needs to do more than just hire some “plus” models to walk the runway and appear in the ads.
To truly change its reputation, Victoria’s Secret must abandon its fetishistic vision of the female form and offer more choices for its customers. Otherwise, it will continue to suffer from an image problem that could lead to a long-term decline in brand loyalty.
As it stands, the company’s reliance on the notion that thin, cis women are the only ones worthy of wings is not just outdated but dangerous. If the company does not commit to a genuine shift in its approach to diversity, it will be left with a soiled legacy that will be difficult to clean up. And, as consumers increasingly reject this type of imagery, Victoria’s Secret may find itself on the losing end of a cultural battle that will be hard to win. The brands that win this war will be the ones that embrace their authenticity and know who they are selling to.