Fragrance is a mixture of chemicals skillfully assembled by the perfumer to give a product its distinctive smell. It can be made of both natural raw materials and synthetic chemicals that replicate the scent of a flower or animal. Perfumes and colognes are examples of fragrances, while perfume oil, body wash and even household cleaning products may contain it. While fragrances can be made from all kinds of plant and animal sources, more than half are now synthetic. Fragrances can also be used to mask unpleasant or harmful odors in products like hair care creams, deodorants and even some cleaning and food products.
Perfumes are classified into 5 main groups loosely based on their concentration of aromatic compounds. The highest concentration is Parfum, or extrait, which typically contains 20-30% fragrance. Unlike other perfumes, which are designed to be sprayed on the skin, parfum is generally used to create a subtle, long-lasting trail of fragrance that is left behind as a person walks. Perfume oils, colognes and aftershaves all contain less concentrated fragrance.
The perfumer begins by collecting and combining various ingredients to create a basic composition. These ingredients include essential oils, which are extracted from the leaves, flowers, bark or roots of plants, and synthetic aroma chemicals that mimic the scent of a flower or animal. Depending on the type of perfume, the perfumer adds more ingredients to create specific effects. These can range from the sharpness or spiciness of a fragrance to its persistence. The fragrance is then mixed with a solvent to create the perfume or cologne.
Most perfumes and colognes contain a combination of fragrant raw materials, solvents to dissolve the oils, stabilizers to slow or reduce evaporation, UV-absorbers and preservatives. They may also contain colorants to give the perfume or cologne its unique appearance. Often, perfumers sample and test their creations on paper blotters (French: mouettes) or other such surfaces to determine how they will evolve once applied to the skin.
While perfume mixtures are regulated as cosmetics by the FDA, the ingredient labeling law does not require that fragrance ingredients be listed individually. This maintains a loophole that allows perfumers to keep their formulations as trade secrets. It also hides the fact that many of these chemicals have been linked to health issues such as cancer, reproductive and developmental toxicity and allergies. In addition, many of the fragrance chemicals commonly used in consumer products are known to cause allergic contact dermatitis, and are also suspected of causing asthma and other respiratory illnesses.