Fragrance is a mixture of chemicals that gives personal care, cleaning and other products their unique smell. It can be made from natural aroma compounds derived from flowers, herbs and spices or synthetically manufactured. Over 3,500 different fragrance chemicals in countless combinations are used in perfumes and other scented products today. Some of these are toxic and may cause a wide range of health problems. Many people are unaware that fragrance chemicals may also be a contributing factor to certain types of skin diseases, such as dermatitis.
Originally, perfume was worn for religious reasons to deodorize the body and to help create a favorable impression on others. However, over the years, it has become a fashion accessory that can also be used to make one feel more confident and attractive. Choosing the right perfume requires careful consideration of the person’s personality, lifestyle and occasion for wearing it. Perfumes are sold in a variety of forms, including sprays, lotions, creams and solids. They can be classified into 5 groups based on their concentration of aromatic compounds:
Top notes are the first to hit the nose and usually last 20-60 minutes after application. They contain the lighter molecules such as citrus and cologne oils, lily of the valley and neroli. Middle notes are the heart of the perfume and usually last 2-4 hours. They are comprised of more complex molecules than top notes and provide the recognizable foundation for a perfume. Base notes are the lingering scent that lasts 8-10 hours and provides a grounding to the whole perfume. They are comprised of woody or musky odors, such as amber and patchouli.
The composition of a perfume is a sophisticated art that requires time and patience to produce the desired results. It begins with a selection of aromatic compounds and dilution of the ingredients with a solvent such as alcohol, acetone, or glycerol. Some perfumers use the traditional maceration method where the plant material is soaked in oil to capture heavier, larger molecules, or the enfleurage technique, which involves pressing the petals of a flower with an alembic (an apparatus used for distillation). After dilution, the perfume is aged for months to years and may be further manipulated using blending, a process known as reformulation.
The resulting fragrance can be tested with paper blotters, or mouillettes, before it is finalized and sold to the public. Perfumes are marketed to males and females, and are typically labeled “Pour Homme” and “Pour Femme.” Depending on the intended effect, some perfumers add colorants and antioxidants for marketing purposes. Fragrance ingredients can also trigger allergic contact dermatitis, a delayed hypersensitivity reaction that manifests as rashes and redness in areas exposed to the perfume. Unlike food, cosmetics are not required to include allergy information on their labels.