Fragrance is the term used to describe a combination of chemicals that gives each perfume or cologne (and many other products such as soaps, cosmetics and cleaning products) its distinct scent. The fragrance chemicals are often derived from natural raw materials or from petroleum. Companies that produce perfume or cologne purchase fragrance mixtures from fragrance houses (companies that specialize in developing fragrances). Fragrance compounds also contain other ingredients such as solvents, stabilizers, UV-absorbers and preservatives. There are over 3,500 different fragrance chemicals and some of them may cause health and environmental problems.
The scenting of the human body is an ancient practice that goes back thousands of years. Historical texts and archaeological excavations have revealed the use of scented oils in some of the earliest civilizations. Modern perfumery began in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma compounds such as vanillin and coumarin. These compounds allowed for the composition of perfumes with smells not attainable from natural aromatics alone.
Most perfumes are a mix of natural and synthetic fragrance compounds. Natural compounds are typically distilled or extracted from raw materials such as flowers, pine trees, herbs and spices. The chemistry of these components is complex and their odors can vary depending on the source, time of harvest or extraction method.
These variations can be problematic when it comes to achieving a certain scent because of the wide range of chemical combinations possible. A perfumer, also known as a “nose”, has the task of matching a certain smell to its chemical composition. A nose is able to detect the slightest differences in a scent and is also trained to recognize the effect of these changes on the skin.
A perfume is composed of a top, middle and base note. A top note is the first impression a person receives after applying a perfume and evaporates quickly, usually within 30 minutes after application. Top notes are comprised of light chemicals that have a fresh smell and include citrus, light fruits and herbs such as lavender or sage.
The middle note is the heart of a perfume and adds depth to a scent. The middle note chemicals are a bit more complex than the top and can have a woody or musky quality. The base note is the foundation of a scent and can last longer than the middle note, lasting several hours after a perfume is applied. The base notes are comprised of compounds such as amber and musk.
Most perfumes are sold in concentrations such as extrait, EdP, EDT and EdC. The differences between these dilutions are the amount of oil they contain. Essentially, an EdP has a higher concentration of oil than an EdT or an EdC. A perfumer will assign a specific percentage of oil to each fragrance and this is the difference between an EdP and an EdT from the same company or an EdC from another company.
Fragrance ingredients are not regulated by the FDA in the same way that food or drug products are. However, the CPSC does have the ability to recall and ban products that contain harmful chemicals and are linked to health problems such as allergic contact dermatitis.