When it comes to lingerie, no brand has a more iconic name than Victoria’s Secret. The American lingerie empire became synonymous with push-up bras and feathered wings after the debut of its annual fashion show in 1998, which featured a rotating roster of famous “Angels” including Tyra Banks, Heidi Klum, Gisele Bundchen, and Adriana Lima. The event quickly became a rite of passage for teen shoppers looking to purchase their first grown-up bras, and the Angels themselves became household names for their friendly, girl-next-door appeal.
But in the era of #MeToo, Victoria’s Secret found itself facing criticism for its racy marketing and dated, antiquated notions of beauty and sexuality. The company responded with a rebrand that jettisoned its infamous fashion shows and its supermodel “Angels” for a more inclusive direction, but was it the right move?
For years, Victoria’s Secret dominated the retail landscape and boasted more than 350 stores nationwide. Its reputation for sexiness and glamour made the lingerie label a rite of passage for teen girls who wanted to get their first adult bras, with models like Gigi Hadid, Lais Ribeiro, and Adriana Lima becoming global celebrities. Its televised fashion show was a must-see for discerning viewers.
But even as the company expanded, Raymond struggled to make the business a profitable enterprise. By the early ’80s, he was on the verge of bankruptcy, when Leslie Wexner bought the company for around $1 million. Wexner reworked the company’s business model and began opening Victoria’s Secret stores in more mainstream shopping malls, making it more accessible to women who would actually wear the products.
The move paid off, and by the late ’80s and early ’90s, Victoria’s Secret had become the largest lingerie retailer in the United States. Its name was a play on the Victorian era, which had been characterized by refined aesthetics and strict societal norms that Raymond sought to infuse into his brand.
In the era of #MeToo, the name felt like a bad fit — part narcissistic feminist bloodbath and part middle-aged male Fantasy Island. As hearts and minds grew more open to the infinite possibilities of identity, Victoria’s Secret began to look one-dimensional and vanilla, and its supposedly racy marketing started to lose its cache.
The company is trying to address those issues by focusing on diversity and inclusivity in its fashion shows, product lines, and corporate culture. Models of diverse body types, ethnicities, and backgrounds have walked in recent shows, and the company has also expanded its range of sizes to include plus-size models. But it’s too soon to know whether the new direction will be enough to revive the company. Until then, the company’s past will always be tied to its future. This article was originally published in January 2022 and has been updated.