The lingerie giant whose name is synonymous with everything from masturbation to a certain type of breast cancer is the subject of this harrowing new docuseries. Directed by Matt Tyrnauer, the three-part series traces Victoria’s Secret’s rise and fall as it charts a shift in the social context that allowed the company to thrive – and brought it to its knees.
Founded in 1977 by Roy Raymond, Victoria’s Secret became a cultural force after its inception, largely because it found its way into shopping malls, a space where people gathered to see and be seen, absorb fashion trends and spend their money. Initially, the company’s wares were marketed to men but the brand soon realized women were their primary customers, and it began to develop pieces that were designed specifically for female wearers.
By the time mall-retail pioneer Les Wexner purchased the company in 1982, it had a flagship store and an annual runway show that was watched by millions of Americans. The ad campaigns were a whirlwind of boob shots and bikini-clad models, and the televised shows featured the so-called Angels: supermodels like Heidi Klum, Adriana Lima and Gisele Bundchen — bombshells trussed up in ever-tinier bits of lace and satin.
The company grew, and as the 1990s turned into the aughts, Victoria’s Secret rode the wave of sexuality-as-empowerment feminism that was embraced in a range of media from “Sex and the City” to Calvin Klein’s seminal 1992 campaign featuring scantily clad Kate Moss and Mark Wahlberg. The ad campaigns continued to feature the so-called Angels, but the company also began to employ a variety of body shapes and sizes and hired its first openly transgender model.
But the annual runway shows, a spectacle that was once watched by millions of Americans, began to lose steam and viewership. The enigmatic billionaire Wexner decided to change the company’s direction, and in 2020, the Angels were retired and the show was cancelled. Then-president Ed Razek stepped down in the wake of allegations of sexual harassment, which he denied, and the brand rebranded itself as “The VS Collective” with an arty-looking campaign featuring a roster that included disabled, plus-size and transgender models including Paloma Elsesser, US soccer star Megan Rapinoe and model Valentina Sampaio.
While the rebranding has not reversed the company’s financial troubles, it has signaled a move away from its focus on bras, underwear and pyjamas and into swimwear and activewear, which are more lucrative. And with the help of this new documentary, the brand may finally be able to get its mojo back. Its latest ad campaign features a diverse cast of women ranging from an Olympic swimmer to a teen gymnast. In a time when our hearts and minds have expanded to encompass the infinite possibilities of beauty and desirability, it’s long past time for Victoria’s Secret to follow suit. The victoria secret docuseries premieres on July 14th on Hulu.