The word fragrance is often associated with perfume or cologne, but it can also be used to describe other scented products like hair care, cleaning products and laundry detergents. While the term has a positive connotation, the truth is that many products marketed as “fragrance” contain a combination of over 5000 different scent chemicals with links to hormone disruption, allergies, and other health problems.
A fragrance is a mixture of volatile aroma compounds that produce a smell when applied to the skin. It can be derived from natural sources such as flowers and trees or synthetically created in laboratories. Perfume, cologne, and aftershave are cosmetic fragrances that are usually sprayed or dabbed onto the body to emit a pleasant smell. Perfumes are generally categorized into five main groups based on their concentration of aromatic compounds. The higher the percentage of essential oils in a perfume, the more expensive it is.
Fragrance is the most commonly added ingredient to personal care products, ranging from shampoos and soaps to perfumes and deodorants. These scents are meant to enhance the user’s experience, and research shows that a person’s sense of smell is related to their mood and self-esteem. Fragranced soaps and hand lotions are believed to encourage people to wash their hands more often, while scented cosmetics may prompt women to apply a bit more makeup when getting ready to go out.
The majority of the fragrance chemicals in commercially available products are derived from petrochemicals such as benzene and its derivatives, aldehydes, and toluene. These toxins are linked to health issues such as allergies, dermatitis, respiratory distress and even reproductive harm. Even products labeled “unscented” may contain chemicals to mask naturally occurring odors from other ingredients.
When a person applies perfume, the scent is carried in the air by a layer of oily molecules called the sillage. This trail of oil, which can last up to an hour after application, is influenced by the scent’s top, middle and base notes. The top note is the first impression a person gets when they apply the perfume and is typically made from citrus, light florals or herbs. The middle note is the heart of the perfume and is a more rounded, complex scent. The base note is the scent that lasts the longest and contains large, heavy molecules [3,5].
In order to create a perfume, raw materials such as plant or synthetic oils are blended with a solvent. This can be achieved through maceration where the material is soaked in oils to serve as solvents, or enfleurage, which uses fats to capture and extract larger, heavier plants molecules. Afterwards, the raw materials are mixed with other chemicals to achieve the desired scent. The process can take months to years, and the final product is often referred to as a “perfume.” Although most cosmetic products are not required by law to be tested for safety, many manufacturers use fragrance chemicals that are known to cause harm, especially allergic contact dermatitis.