The Art of Perfume

Perfume (from French “fragrance”) is a mixture of oils and chemicals in liquid form that is used to give the human body, animals, clothing, food, and living spaces a pleasant and lasting aroma. Its use dates back thousands of years to ancient Egypt, where scented oils were used in ritual bathing. The modern perfume industry blossomed with the commercial synthesis of aromatic molecules in the 19th century, which enabled the creation of fragrances previously unattainable. Today, the art of perfumery is an intricate process that takes many different ingredients into consideration.

Perfumes are classified based on their dominant fragrance, such as floral, fruity, woody, or spicy. They can also be grouped according to intensity, such as eau de parfum, eau de toilette, and eau de cologne.

Scents can have powerful effects, eliciting instant emotional responses and even altering heart-rate or blood pressure. These changes are attributed to associative learning, and occur when an odor is linked with a specific memory or emotion. The use of odor as a way to communicate is widespread among animals, from bacteria to bears, and it is possible that the ability to smell may be one of the most important characteristics distinguishing humans from other species.

The first step in creating a perfume is the extraction of essential oils from plants and flowers using a variety of techniques, including steam distillation and maceration. These oil extracts are then diluted with alcohol and water to produce different scents. Gentle, lighter scents are found in colognes and body mists, while more intense, long-lasting perfumes contain essential oils. Perfumes can be further refined by combining different notes and adding chemical components such as fixatives and solvents.

Fragrance-making is a complex craft that requires time and patience. The olfactory experience of a perfume can change depending on the amount and concentration of oil, as well as how it is applied. Perfumes are referred to as “oriental,” “woody,” or “floral” based on the predominant note, but their complexities go far beyond those simple categories.

The modern perfumer is an expert in blending, layering, and combining perfume accords to create unique and memorable compositions. Perfumes can be further categorized by their intended audience, as indicated by the words “pouf” or “poudre,” or according to specific olfactory harmonies. Perfumes are sometimes described as “concentrée,” “extrait,” or “diffusion” to indicate their olfactory intensity, although those terms are often misleading and inaccurate.

Scent is a personal choice, and deciding which perfume to wear is not always an easy decision. A 2003 study by Herz et al found that women’s perfume selection was influenced by their mood, how they viewed themselves, and the occasion for which they were planning to wear it. But what’s most important is that you choose a fragrance that makes you feel confident, beautiful, and alive. And, just remember—a little bit of perfume goes a long way. Unless, of course, you suffer from contact dermatitis, in which case even a small amount of perfume can cause symptoms.