Perfume is a mixture of fragrance oils, fixatives and solvents in liquid form used to give people, animals, food, clothes, objects and living-spaces an agreeable smell. Perfumes are used for many reasons, from increasing self-appeal to promoting personal identity and even aiding in memory recall [1]. Perfume is a complex blend of raw materials that vary by product and are formulated through several methods such as steam distillation, boiling, solvent extraction, enfleurage and maceration. The perfume industry is a multibillion-dollar business and a highly-skilled craft.
Fragrance oils are extracted from natural ingredients such as flowers, grasses, fruits, spices, herbs, woods, roots, resins and leaves and even animal secretions and fecal matter. Perfume can contain both natural and synthetic materials, but the majority of raw materials are derived from plants such as lily-of-the-valley and ylang-ylang. The oils are then diluted with a base of alcohol and other ingredients such as musk, civet and frankincense. The perfume is then mixed with a solvent and the mixture is bottled.
The chemistry of the skin, as well as the raw materials used, causes perfume to change throughout the day and even over time. This is due to the evaporation of top notes, heart notes and base notes. Top notes are the lightest scents that evaporate quickly and include a combination of citrus, fruity or floral aromas. The heart notes are the longest-lasting aromas and tend to be more herbal, floral or spice-based. The base notes are the most enduring and consist of wood, amber and musk.
When a perfume is first made, it undergoes a process called maturing and aging which lasts from a month to up to one year. During this time, the perfume is kept in a cool, dark area and is left undisturbed. This allows the ingredients to settle and bond with the alcohol and other components of the perfume.
After a period of time, the perfumer will smell the perfume and make any adjustments necessary. The perfume is then bottled and sold to consumers. A perfumer will often refer to the perfume as ‘pour homme’ or ‘pour femme’ when marketing a particular scent. This is a French term that means ‘for men’ or ‘for women’ respectively.
Perfumes are categorized into five main groups: Floral, Oriental, Woody, Aromatic Fougere and Fresh. These categories are then further subdivided into specific scents such as Chanel No. 5, traditionally an aldehydic floral, being classified as a Soft Floral. Guerlain Mitsouko, a chypre, is placed under Mossy Woody, while Hermes Rouge, a floral oriental, is grouped into the Oriental category.
While some may think perfumes are a waste of money, the benefits of wearing perfume extend beyond personal olfactory pleasure and can have positive effects on mood and mental health. For example, research shows that pleasant odours can reduce anxiety and stress, while stimulating parts of the brain involved in learning and memory. Furthermore, the calming effect of certain smells can help in the treatment of depression and even decrease pain levels.