A perfume is a liquid mixture that emits a pleasant smell when rubbed on the skin. It is a combination of fragrant essential oils derived from plants and spices or synthetic aromatic compounds. Perfumes are classified into five groups loosely based on the concentration of aromatic compounds: parfum or extrait (the highest), eau de toilette (20-30%), eau de cologne (5-15%), eau de fraiche (3-8%) and aftershave (7-25%). Perfume can be worn as cosmetic fragrance or a scenting agent for other cosmetic products such as soaps, talcum powders and face and body sprays.
The perfume-making process combines technical precision with artistic creativity. Fragrance ingredients, either natural such as flowers and spices or synthetic, are carefully selected. They are then distilled or extracted in order to produce their essences. These are then blended together and subject to a period of mellowing. A perfumer may then create a fragrance from a ‘brief’, a specific instruction of what the finished product should smell like. The resulting perfume contains a harmonious blend of notes that unfold over time, starting with the light top notes which evaporate quickly and leave a fresh impression, followed by the middle and then the base.
It is often said that a perfumer can be compared to a composer or novelist who builds a musical theme into a composition that has a flow of dynamic changes, building up from the lightest and most fleeting elements to the more complex and lasting ones. It is also said that the best perfumes evoke an image or emotion that is more than the sum of its parts, creating a gestalt effect in which the wearer experiences the fragrance as a whole and not just a collection of individual notes.
The olfactory system is highly sensitive to a wide range of chemicals, and the context in which they are presented is crucially important in determining their meaning and effect on the wearer. This is because odours can have both positive and negative associations, depending on the connotation and denotation of the odour and its association with an object or activity.
There is a long tradition of using perfume, with its origins in ancient times when humans infused body lotions with essential oil extracts from fragrant flowers and herbs. Modern perfumes can be classified as having a feminine, masculine or unisex aroma, and the choice of which to wear is a matter of personal preference and taste.
Scent has been shown to have a powerful affect on mood, and pleasant smells are associated with feelings of happiness and confidence. It is therefore not surprising that many people use perfume to improve their sense of well-being. A link has even been found between a pleasant aroma and an increased tolerance of pain.
Fragrance creation is a fascinating art that allows us to transport ourselves into imaginary worlds through the medium of smell. The great perfumes do this with such skill and elegance that they can leave a mark as profound as any work of art.