The new three-part documentary series “Victoria Secret: Angels and Demons,” on Hulu, opens with a backstage scene as the lingerie company’s annual fashion show begins. The so-called Angels, clad in their dreamy pink and white lingerie, smile and pout for the cameras.
The company’s founder, Roy Raymond, conceived Victoria’s Secret in 1977 after being embarrassed when he bought his wife lingerie at a public department store. He wanted to create a lingerie brand that could be shopped in private. He envisioned a woman who was both sexy and modest, blending traditional feminine values with a sensual, playful side that would appeal to men as well as women.
During the show’s heyday in the 2000s, the company aired a sex-charged spectacle watched by millions in 200 countries and featured performers like Destiny’s Child and Kanye West. But the spectacle had an underbelly: a culture of sexual harassment that eventually led to the resignations of Raymond and his wife, Gaye, in 2009.
A decade later, L Brands, the company that owns Victoria’s Secret, took steps to address its tarnished reputation by changing its marketing strategy and hiring more diverse models. But those changes were only a Band-Aid, and the company’s problems continued to escalate. Its same-store sales began to decline, and it started losing market share to new competitors such as Aerie and Skims. Its sales dipped below $7.7 billion in 2020, and the company slashed its budget and fired its chief executive officer, John Mehas.
Its most recent controversy was around inclusivity, with its former marketing head Ed Razek making controversial comments about why transgender and plus-sized women should not appear in the fashion show. The ensuing backlash was swift and severe, with Angels like Kendall Jenner, Karlie Kloss and Lily Aldrige publicly criticizing the company for its lack of diversity.
The company responded by trading its “angels” for “ambassadors,” giving the roles to soccer player Megan Rapinoe and actress Priyanka Chopra Jonas, among others. It also changed its runway show to include more curvy and diverse models, including Paloma Elsesser, Winnie Harlow, Naomi Campbell and Quannah Chasinghorse.
But it’s too early to say whether the revamped Victoria’s Secret will succeed or fail. It will take time for the new models to build credibility, and the show’s tumultuous history may still deter some viewers.
The company has targeted younger generations, who tend to expect companies to take progressive social stances. But the company has also had to adapt to the broader demands of society in general, as it continues to shift to more size-inclusive and diverse models—and expand the definition of what it means to be a sexy woman. That’s not an easy feat. Nevertheless, it’s worth watching how the revamped Victoria’s Secret performs this year to see what kind of legacy it will leave behind.