Lingerie company Victoria’s Secret is a household name, and if you’re an “Angel,” it’s a pretty good gig. Achieving that status is no small feat, but it comes with a legion of dedicated fans and the opportunity to travel the world with your newfound fame.
But despite the fame, prestige, and paychecks, the company has been embroiled in a fair share of controversy. The lingerie brand’s fashion show, featuring a parade of skinny-curvy models decked out in angel wings and being ogled by men, feels dated in the post-MeToo world. And the company’s past CEO, Les Wexner, is a former financial client of Jeffrey Epstein, the man accused of helping orchestrate rapes and other sexual misconduct against several women.
The company was founded by American business man Roy Raymond in 1977, who wanted to create a lingerie line that was both flattering and more comfortable than the frumpy undergarments found at department stores. He did his research for nearly eight years before launching Victoria’s Secret. In 1982, the brand was purchased by Les Wexner, founder of Limited Brands (which also owns Lane Bryant and Express) for $1 million. Wexner quickly turned the company around and repositioned it as a more inclusive, empowering brand.
Wexner and his chief marketing officer, Ed Razek, created a spectacle that would become known as the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show. The sexy, glittering event featured supermodels like Heidi Klum, Tyra Banks, and Gisele Bundchen parading down the runway in lingerie that was designed to make them look as amazing as possible. The shows became a yearly phenomenon, and the brand’s “Angels”—contract models like Banks, Bundchen, and Lima—became household names.
However, it appears the company is finally realizing that its sexy-over-substance approach has been a major miscalculation. In 2019, the brand canceled its televised fashion show and launched a filmed version for Prime Video, which has gotten tepid reviews. And sales have started to suffer, with same-store sales declining 3% in 2018.
This year, the company is taking a risk and embracing change. The new VS 2024 show will feature returning models including Gigi Hadid, Adriana Lima, Paloma Elsesser, and Jasmine Tookes, as well as new faces like Mayowa Nicholas, Sara Sampaio, and Olivia Culpo. But it’s also bringing on a collective of young London-based artists, activists and designers to help the company embrace new ways of thinking about its stance on gender identity and representation.
They will be working with the brand to build a new narrative that’s less focused on sexuality and more about promoting equality. The goal is to create a new model that will speak to younger consumers and reposition the brand as more than just a place to buy sexy underwear. It’s an interesting move, and one we will be watching closely to see if it pays off.