Fragrance is a chemical ingredient that provides scent to a wide range of products, from perfumes and hair care products to household cleaning products. The term is also used to refer to a perfume’s concentration, with different levels of fragrance indicated by the terms Eau de Toilette (1% to 3% scent), Cologne (2 to 4% scent), Parfum (5 to 10% scent) and Perfume (20% to 40% scent). A few essential facts about fragnance are helpful for understanding this complex mixture of chemicals.
The word perfume comes from Middle French, derived from the Latin word fragrantia. Its earliest known use was in the 14th century, when a Frenchman called Rene Descartes described an aromatic mixture that he called fumigraine. Perfumes are composed of a mixture of scent chemicals and a solvent, which serves to improve stability and reduce or slow the evaporation of the chemicals. Perfumes are available in a variety of forms, including oils, sprays and roll-on gels. The most concentrated forms are perfume, cologne and hair spray. Other names for a perfume or cologne are redolence, scent and essence.
Perfumes contain two kinds of ingredients: natural and synthetic. Natural fragrance materials come from plants or animals, and may be extracted by steam distillation, water distillation or a process called enfleurage. Until recently, some natural scent ingredients were obtained from animal sources, such as whale and civet oil, but these materials have been discontinued, due to ethical and environmental concerns. The majority of fragrance ingredients are now manufactured through chemical processes.
Various types of fragrance chemicals are available to perfumers, ranging from inexpensive synthetic aroma chemicals to high-cost natural aromatic compounds. A perfumer selects and mixes the components to create a fragrance that meets a customer’s desired taste, smell or mood. Perfume chemicals are available in a variety of forms, from pure, odorless liquids to solids such as waxes or crystalline powders.
A perfumer can develop a unique signature fragrance by selecting the right balance of top, middle and base notes, as well as a finishing touch. Top notes provide a burst of scent and are often fruity or sharp. Middle notes add depth and warmth, while base notes provide a long-lasting rounded and smooth effect.
When a person applies perfume, he or she leaves a trail of fragrance that others can detect, called sillage. The sillage is the result of a combination of the perfume’s chemistry and the way the wearer moves, which can influence the flow of the fragrance.
The chemistry of a fragrance is closely linked to its health effects, and the fragrance industry has developed an extensive testing system for evaluating safety. These tests include hazard identification, hazard quantification and exposure assessment. The International Fragrance Association and the Research Institute of Fragrance Materials (RIFM) work together to establish standards for safe use of fragrance ingredients.
The term fragnance is also sometimes used to describe the scent of a person, rather than the chemicals in the perfume or cologne. This sillage is known as a personal signature, which can be enhanced with grooming and clothing choices.