What is Fragrance?
Fragrance, also known as perfume or parfum, is a manmade mixture of aromatic chemicals and essential oils that emit and diffuse a pleasant odor. The FDA defines fragrances as “a combination of chemicals that gives a product its distinctive scent.” Most perfume and cologne contain a variety of synthetic components in addition to the scent chemicals, including solvents, preservatives, UV-absorbers and colorants. Many of the chemicals used in fragrances have been linked to health issues such as cancer, reproductive and developmental toxicity, allergies and sensitivities. Because of this, there is a clear need for stronger regulations and greater transparency in the perfume industry. Fragrances are a form of aromatherapy, and some people use them to enhance mood or help with depression, anxiety and stress. Studies have shown that our sense of smell is connected to memories and emotions, so a certain perfume can evoke an emotional response in the wearer. In fact, some scientists believe that a person’s sense of smell can affect their memory, and can even influence the flavor of food. Until the late 19th century, most perfumes were made from natural, plant-derived oils or extracts. The commercial synthesis of aromatic compounds in the 20th century allowed perfumers to create scents that were impossible using only natural materials. Perfume is available in a wide variety of concentrations, from Eau Fraiche (1% to 3% fragrance) to Eau de Parfum (10% to 20% fragrance). A perfume’s composition depends on the structure of its odorous components. There are three structural parts of a perfume: the top notes, the heart or body notes, and the base notes. The top notes evaporate quickly, and are the first smells to be noticed by the wearer. They consist of small, light molecules that give off a fresh, fruity or floral smell. Common top notes include citrus (lemon, orange), light berries and herbs. The heart or middle notes consist of a combination of various scents that give the perfume its character. They may be a single flower scent (soliflore) or a compound of several flowers, such as the floral bouquet of Houbigant Quelques Fleurs or Jean Patou Joy. They also contain a variety of chemicals such as vanilla, tonka bean and coumarin. Finally, the base notes are long-lasting and provide the fragrance’s body and depth. Common base notes include woody substances such as agarwood, sandalwood and cedarwood, and resinous plants such as patchouli and vetiver. Natural perfumes are often difficult to produce and are more expensive than their synthetic counterparts. In addition, a natural scent can vary significantly from supplier to supplier because of differences in how and when the raw material was grown or harvested, and how it was extracted from its source. This makes it easy for unscrupulous suppliers to adulterate a perfume by adding intoxicating or toxic chemicals from other sources (for example, blending Indian jasmine into French rose) to increase their profit margins. Synthetics are often preferred for their reliability and consistency, as well as their lower olfactory threshold, which means they can be used in higher concentrations than naturals.
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